Dibbo's and Trotty Trips

The Great African Adventure

8 August 2003 to 10 October 2003


Well its been over a week since we arrived in South Africa. Since then everything has been going OK. We stayed in Pretoria for 2 nights - the second of which we had quite a few and stumbled home from a pub just down the road form the backpackers. We met up with 2 locals who we drank with for a good Sunday afternoon session.

The next day we picked up our hire car (a Toyota Tazz) and headed west (me driving - almost had a head on). We arrived at Kuruman on dark and eventually found a great place to stay a little way out of town.

The next morning when we got up there was frost everywhere. We then went back into town to see the Eye of Kuruman. This is a natural spring that produces 20 million litres of fresh water a day. The whole trip from Pretoria to Kuruman (about 500km) we did not see a running river or a creek. This is the only water around for miles. Bought some supplies (mainly beer and meat) and then went to Moffat Mission - a little way out of town. This bloke’s eldest daughter married Livingstone. He dug a trench for 5 km to bring water from the Eye to the valley where the mission is located - pretty impressive. Then it was on the road to the Kalahai National park. About 300km to the main turn off with 250 being dirt - pretty good road (Dibbo did a fish tail around a corner and almost lost control) - went through a town called Hotezal - it was cold that day - but I can imagine that its gets pretty warm in summer. Got to the turn off to the park (60km to go) to find that its dirt as well - this is strange as its the second/third best National Park in South Africa. The road was a shocker - took an hour to go the 60kms. The poor little car took a pounding. Got to the park and set up our tent/camp - and off for a game drive. Saw mainly Springbok, Gemsbok - but did see a pride of Lions about 150m away from the road. Back to camp for a few beers and dinner - BBQ boertwors, rump and chops. Not bad camp site - a BBQ (had to buy wood), concrete tables and chairs and a light. To bed early for an early start the next morning.

Up at 6.00 and to the gate at 6.30 - then we were told that we needed to go back to the gate house to pick up our permit (didn't do that yesterday). Drove down the same road and saw much the same things - the lions were in the same spot as yesterday. The plan was to stay another night in the park at another camp site on the border with Namibia - however the internet advise that we got back in Australia was wrong - the 2 border posts in the park have been closed for 2 years. So we had to cut a day out so we could get to Etosha the day after tomorrow. We had to go the long way around. Most of this is by dirt - got to the border at 12.00 and through both sides with no probs - one fella was interested in the amount of grog we had in the esky. Then another 270 km on dirt - good dirt roads in Namibia - SA dirt roads are crap. Big days drive to Windhoek (got there just after dark) - another hour time difference - we are now 9 hours behind Australia. Found the backpackers we booked into (Dibbo has been using his mobile to book ahead from the car) with only a little detour. Had a meal at a restaurant down the road - to bed early - big day.

Up early again for the trip to Etosha - good roads and got there at 11.30. Drove straight to the first camp (and the best) - went to the waterhole there - amazing - 4 elephants came to drink along with 100s of Gemsbok, Springbok, Kudu, warthog, etc... After about 5 minutes a hyena came along - frightened all the game off the water - then made a beeline for the elephants - he took them on - charging at them - he got trampled and had a little lay down in the water to recover. By this time the elephants had moved to the other end of the waterhole - he then decided to take them on again - he went for them - going right up between their back legs (they were male - so I suppose that he was after those tender spots in that area) - the last we saw, was the elephants bolting away with the hyena looking pleased with himself. We then did a 100km drive to the next camp where we are staying the night. Good drive - saw heaps of Springbok, Wilderbeast, Gemsbok, Kudu, Giraffe, saw more Elephants at another waterhole. We almost ran over a Giraffe that came out on the road - think we got some good photos. Arrived at the next camp about 1/2 hour before sundown (gates close and open with sunrise and sunset). Booked in and were told that we couldn't go to the waterhole that night as there were 2 lions trapped inside the camping ground - they have been trying to get them out all day. - So tonight we are sleeping with lions with only our tent to keep us safe. We set up camp and had more meat for dinner as well as 2 bottles of red and beers (Dibbo had quite a few scotches). At one stage we decided we would try to get to the waterhole - we were stopped by rangers with big guns - they are still looking for the lions. Dibbo to bed - I stayed up having a few more - about midnight I realised that I was the only one awake and outside a tent except for the people with guns. Decided to go to bed - after a slight tumble (uneven ground).

Up early the next morning - neither of us feeling 100%. Another drive - about 100km to next camp - about the same as yesterday - saw plenty - but the same things. To other camp at 11.00 - we are staying in a room in an old fort - not bad - it has a fridge. Went to this waterhole at the camp - nothing much to see. Had a rest and about 3.00 went for another drive - not a lot to see. Back to gate just as they were closing it. Very quite night - a few beers and a sandwich for dinner (Dibbo not feeling well - not from grog- something else). To bed early.

Up early next morning - 170km drive back the way we came - not bad - saw a few elephant beside the road and saw 2 black rhinos - out the gate at 10.30 and on the road to Swakopund - stopped at lunch time to have a beer and a steak sandwich at a roadside pub/cafe - 3 beers and 2 meals for 35 rand - $7.00 - everything here is cheap - we are getting 500ml beers at pubs/resturants/nightclubs for about 7 rand ($1.40) and 500ml cans of beer in supermarkets for about 70 cents each. Got to Swakopund about 4.30 - had a few beers on the way - the speed limit in SA and Namibia is 120 - we normally sit on 140 and get passed by cars that must be doing 160/180. Booked into backpackers - Desert Sky - got a twin room - 150R /night for both of us - $30AUS ($15 each). A few more beers and then a drive around town taking photos. Drove to the lighthouse restaurant (one of the better ones in town) had our meal at the bar - had 3 beers each, a bottle of red wine, a schnitzel and a Onyx steak for 200R ($40AUS) - good food and value. Back to backpackers to drop off car - then down the road to a pub - stayed there until midnight and then taken by a few locals to another bar - the last grog docket we have says we ordered a drink at 1.36am - so we got home sometime after that - both a little wobbly.

Up at 9.00 the next morning - picked up by sandboarding mob at 9.30 - out to dunes and then long climb up to top. Did 8 runs down various parts of the dunes - the biggest one we were doing 80km/hour - great fun - but with a hangover and not being fit - walking up the dunes was a bugger. We did lie down - others did stand up with snow boards- we has more fun (and its cheaper). Back to room (after they gave us lunch and 3 beers each) - restful afternoon - out for 1/2 hour taking some more photos - then a walk to a German restaurant for dinner - not bad. Back to hotel bar from last night and watched a video of the sandboarding. Both rooted - back to room and read book.

Up at 7.30 the next morning and down to Internet - which is where I am now - off to the Namib dunes (300m high) this morning. Looks like I’m getting a cold or Flu - probably from drinking out of the communal water bottle at the dunes.

Well its been 2 weeks since the last e-mail and quite a bit has happened since I last wrote. We left Swakopund and travelled to the Namib desert - great huge sand dunes. We did a drive thru the
dunes and then back out to a guest farm to camp the night. We were going to stay closer to the dunes - but it was going to cost us heaps for just a piece of dirt with showers, etc. miles away. So we decided to try a place Dibbo saw on the internet - nice place - we pitched the tent and cooked gemsbok fillet, mushrooms and bread for dinner - very nice. Had a small mishap coming back from the shower - didn't turn my torch on and fell over a small fence around a bush that had about six - 3 foot high steel reo rods around it - one grazed up my chest and stopped just short of my neck - bloody hurt - I thought it might have gone through me.

The next day was a long drive back to Upington in South Africa - no problems at the borders and roads pretty good. Stayed in a B&B - nice place only $50 AUS for the 2 of us and a great breakfast the next morning. Went out to dinner at a chain restaurant - BROS - huge meals we also had entries of crumbed mushroom and garlic snails.
Next day we were off to Kimberley - the countryside getting a few more trees and streams that are actually are flowing. Did a small pub crawl at Kimberley to some of the old pubs - e.g. Halfway House. Then off to the Keg and Falcon for dinner. They looked after us cause we were Aussies - gave us a selection of wines that weren't on the wine list and actually gave us a lift back to the B&B about midnightish (we think).

Next day off to Bloefontein - had a drive around - some nice buildings - then off to Lesotho via a beer or 2 at Ladybrand in a not too bad pub. On the way saw a small ute with a large bull in the back being taken to the butcher - poor little car could barely move. We were going to stay in the capital Maseru - but all booked out - bought 2 Lesotho hats - good price. Decided to drive out of the capital to find accom - about 40 km north found the Blue Mountain Inn - not bad place. Had dinner and few beers in the bar - pretty good.

Next day went for a drive around the countryside - did a small tour of where the first king made a name for himself - Moeshoeshoe 1. Lesotho is a mad house - chaos. Dibbo got fined 30 Rand ($6) for doing 80 in a 50 zone - apparently it was a built up zone - 4 mud brick huts - police joking and having a good time. Had lunch at a local place - I had chips and some sort of sausage - Dibbo had mashed spuds/corn and some type of offal. Back into South Africa - no probs at the border - off to Clarens (it has a golf course). Booked into a B&B - run by a couple who have perfect upper class accents along with the servants that call her madam and the 2 silky terrors. Nice spot Clarens - it is an arts and crafts place - a lot of people come on the weekend to shop and look around. We had a few that night and called a few people back in Townsville. Slept in until 9.30 - thought brekky was off - but no, they had it in the oven for us. We had to stay in another place the next day as they were booked up. This place is a self contained cottage 190R ($40) a night for the whole place. Went into town - had a look around - went to local butcher and bought heaps of Biltong and meat for a BBQ tonight - great bloke - had a good yarn. Then we hit the pubs and then back to cottage for BBQ, beers, wine and scotch for Dibbo (he’s having trouble getting dry for his scotch).

Next morning we have a game of golf booked - very cold and the buggy has a flat battery - the course is very dry - even the greens are brown. We didn't play too bad - but very unforgiving course for the slices me and Dibbo have. He ended up losing 3 balls, me 1 and I 4 putted twice and 5 putted once. The 7th and 8th holes pretty good - one you shoot blind and end up on a cliff looking down at the hole and the other is teeing off down to the green below. After the game we were off to the Golden Gate National Park - I'm was feeling crook, almost spewed a few times. We drove around - didn't see much and then Dibbo dropped me off and he had a bit more of a look around - very cold and wind blowing at 60- 80 km/hr - fires in the area - so very hazy. The power went off at 1.00pm (and came on again at about 1.00am the next morning) - so we decided to go back to Clarens for dinner - quiet night.

Next day (I'm feeling better - but still have the Flu) - off to the Sentinel National Park - Dibbo thinking of doing a 4 hour walk around the mountain - not me (I have had this cold/flu for a bloody week now). Nice drive to the carpark at the start of the walk - good views. Dibbo decided that he wasn't going to do the walk as well - off to Dundee for the night. Put some photos in to be developed - came out good - great photos of Etosha. A few beers in the bar - huge old place - once was a fort - rooms full of Boer war and Zulu war stuff. Had quite a few that night and put washing in to be done.

Up next morning - late - I went to pay the bill - 850 rand ($170) - charged 180R for washing - ($35) expensive place. Off to Swaziland - thru border with no probs and drove thru the countryside - much less hectic than Lesotho and seem to be more prosperous. The land is not as over farmed as Lesotho and seems to be less people. Found the backpackers where we are staying its called Sondzela in the Mlilwane wildlife park - great place - we have a twin room for 150R /night ($30). The main rest camp is about 1 km away and has a waterhole with crocs (saw a big one) and about 10 Hippos. This park was a farm and the bloke that owned it (O'reilly) decided to turn it into a game farm - almost went broke - but he eventually got it up and running - big fights with government corruption and poachers - the king eventually stepped in and sorted it out. Once it was a going concern he gave it away to be run by a trust for the country - amazing man. The park has no predators (they keep numbers down by culling and using the meat to feed the tourists and park workers) but has heaps of other stuff and its getting better all the time. Spent our time driving around and did a 2 hour horse ride (I fell off within the first 2 minutes - my own fault - must remember not to kick the horse too hard). Spent a great 2 days here with a few beers and a couple of great meals - had roast impala a few times and saw some traditional dancing (for free). Left Swaziland and spent the night at Barberton (an old gold mining town) - they have a heritage walk - but didn't have to do it as the bloke from the info office spent 30 minutes telling us all about it (although we did do 5 meters of it walking from the car to the pub). Stayed in a house that the owners are fixing up - nice place - 12 beds - just the 2 of us for 100R each. Into town to the Phoenix Hotel for dinner and drinks - big night - got home at 2ish (apparently I fell off the bar stool, smashed a glass, followed the barmaid into the loo and almost got into a fight).

Very slow yesterday on the drive to Pretoria (Dibbo drove - I slept) - got there at 3.00pm. We stopped for a game of golf at Nelisprut - bloody terrible - still half cut, I can hardly remember playing the game. Once in Pretoria - straight to the Word of Mouth Hostel. Went to see a Currie cup game 60R a ticket for the grandstand ticket (bloke ripped us off - we had a seat in the dead ball area) - not too bad (Blues played someone else) - 3 pissed loud locals sat beside us - 1 coming to live in Australia with his family - his son wants to play for the Wallabies. Walked back to the hostel via a beer at the Hatfield restaurant area. Early night.

This morning went to get digital photos put on disk and go to car hire place - good result - we picked up the car from Pretoria instead of the Airport and we got an upgrade to a 8 seater Blue Kombi. Did some shopping and emailing and off at 4.00 to airport to pick up Lynne and Kylie.

Well we have covered some ground in the last week or so. The Saturday before last we picked Lynne and Kylie up from the airport - they were late getting in and stuffed from the flight. We managed to talk them into going to Hatfield Plaza for a few drinks and dinner - pretty good food - Greek this time.
The next day we did a drive around Pretoria looking at the Voretrekker Monument and the Transvaal Museum as well as the Union Building - all pretty good. Then it was back to Hatfield for lunch (Italian place) and a few beers while the girls went across the road to the Sunday markets. Then a few more beers back to the hostel to shower and change and back to the Plaza for dinner - News Cafe.

Next morning we did the Soweto tour - nothing what people expect - they have millionaires living there as well as Indian and whites. A lot of the homes are just average type houses - most of the shanty towns have been pulled down (the place I went to last time has been bulldozed and the people relocated to hostels). Went to Nelson Mandela old house and a Museum to Hector someone who got shot years ago in a school kids march. Drove past Desmond Tutus place and Winnie Mandelas place. Back to Pretoria to do a shop and pack the car. Then it was off as far as we can go to the Botswana border (me driving - I always seem to get the night ones???). Actually got there about 8.00pm but it was closed - lucky to find a nice little lodge and petrol station about 5 kms from the border.

Up and to the border by just after 8am - big line up - heaps of trucks heading north. eventually got through both borders at 10.00. Long drive to Tsane (Chobe) - got there late afternoon - we past about 50 elephants on the side of the road in the last 40kms (Chobe National park isn't fenced). Just missed the sunset - had dinner at the restaurant - great smorgasbord - goat, lamb, meat, bortwors, chops and much, much more - had a few beers and a bottle of lively red and back to the room for a few nightcaps. The place we are staying at is 2 rondavelds joined together with a shared bathroom /lounge.
Up early next morning for trip to Vic Falls (cost $50 US each and $30US for the visa) - can't take the car as the rental firm wont allow it. The girls did a helicopter ride over the falls and then we all walked to the national park and paid $20US each to walk along the other edge of the ravine facing the falls - great place and they weren't even anywhere near in flood. Back to the town - its gone downhill heaps in the 3 years since I was last here - heaps more beggars, etc.. and heaps less tourists. Back to Chobe and we cooked a BBQ for dinner and a few amber fluids to wash it all down.

Up early the next morning (5.30) for a 6am start for a game drive - got to the gate and were told that we have to have a 4 wheel drive to enter park - pissed off - back to the lodge where we were lucky to get a guided drive for just the 4 of us for 4 hours. Saw heaps of hippo, impala (those tasty things), buffalo, kudo, Sable, eagles, giraffe, elephant. Back to lodge with me and Dibbo off to bar to relax with a few Zambezis - as luck would have it - the TV had the England/SA 5th cricket test. Had a few and then off on the 3.15 sunset cruise (yes with a bar with icy cold beer) - by this stage we are running low on Pula (the currency) so we have to ration ourselves - we don’t want to be left with too much or too little pula as you can imagine. Quiet night for some - but alas myself and Dibbo had a few too many night caps.

Up at 4.30 away at 5.00 - Lynne driving and Kylie navigating - me and Dibbo asleep in the 2 back seats. Lynne killed 2 birds - the second a large quail. Also almost an over an elephant that was standing in the middle of the road while it was still dark. Long drive back to the border - thru both in 15 minutes (a lot better than the last time) - then to Pietersburg to change cars (we got another blue combi - we had a bit of trouble getting the spare tyre under the front of the car) - this one has a few faults - can't open the back door, can't adjust front seat, radio only half works and the central locking has a mind of its own. Then off to Tzaneen - nice place - we stayed in a pretty good place (all of us in the 1 room) and being Friday night had dinner and drinks in the bar/restaruant - good dinner and 2 bottles of red and a couple of shooters and a 80 proof rum called Stoh and a few beers - off to bed a bit worse for wear.

Up reasonably early for a full breakfast - bacon , eggs, etc.. - all a bit slow. Into town for Dibbo to burn his photos onto disks - took a while and did some shopping for Kruger. Eventually to Kruger gate at 10.00 - slow drive to our room for the night at Mopani rest camp (nice place) - didn't see a real lot - the usual - elephant, zebra, impala, giraffe, etc. Booked a night drive (after a BBQ of steak and salad). Didn't see much on the night drive - the highlight being when an elephant charged the truck when the spotlight hit its eye - got to within a trunks length of Lynne - good fun (but Lynne didn't seem to want to get any closer). Back to room and bed - up early again tomorrow.

Up at 5.30 - away at 6 - according to the game board they are seeing lion, cheetah, rhino and leopard everywhere - well we went to all these spots on the 6 hour drive south and saw nothing - saw heaps of the stuff we have already seen. Booked into our tent at Skukuza (4 beds and a wooden door and fridge). To restaurant and supermarket to buy supplied and stuff - I had a lunch of a beer, Pie, gravy and chips for 27 Rand (about $6.00). Then off on another game drive from 2.30 to 6 - still none of the ones we want to see - my highlight was seeing a tree full of vultures with a good smell coming from somewhere nearby. Back to camp for Kudu and Impala and a few beers.

Up again early at 5.30 for last drive - drove until 11.30 - still no leopard, lion, rhino our cheetah - drove about 700km in the 2 days we were there - so we gave it every chance - still one more park to go - fingers crossed.

Had a nice drive to Sabie (a timber town in the mountains - surrounded by the largest man made forest on earth) - saw a few waterfalls - Mac Mac, Lone River and Horseshoe. Staying in a nice self contained place. Off to dinner last night at Jock of the Bushveld - long story - but jock was a dog. Dibbo had ostrich - not bad. A few beers and bottle of red and then back home for a night cap. GREAT - a slept in at last until 8.00. Then off via post office to potholes, 3 rondavels (rock formations) and Blyhe River Canyon and Gods Window (first 2 times I was here the curtain was closed - this time fully open - which means no fog , rain or mist) - then I dropped the rest off at a cultural village while I came to Hazyview to do emailing. Now you are up to date - until the next time bye for now

Well - a lot has passed since I last wrote. We left the Sabie/Hazyview area the Wednesday before last (10/9) and travelled a long day down to Kwambonambi - which is a small town not far from the twin game parks of Umuflozi/Hluhluwe. Stopped on the way at a grog shop in Nelisprut - great place - had a enormous range of stuff including a 28 litre bottle of wine for about 2000R ($400 AUS). The place where we stayed was called the Cuckoos Nest - good bar and my and Kylies room is an A frame near the bar (with the swimming poll at our front door) with a candle to light the room (Kylie almost burnt the place down when the candle fell over when she was out of the room). The 2 young owners liked a beer (the bloke was from NZ and the girl from UK) - them and 1 other bought the place a few years ago after meeting there and liking the place.

The next day we were up early to go to the game parks - drove around until 2.30 and saw heaps of animals - eventually saw a lion - unfortunately it was about 250 metres away - but we did have a lioness (which had just killed a warthog) and 2 cubs about 50 metres away - but couldn't see them for thick reeds. Also saw about 7 Rhino - most were in the distance - but saw a couple reasonably close - but they were all lying down - so no good shots. After the park we went to a Zulu Cultural Village - the other 3 did the 90 minute tour - I stayed in the bar while they did the tour. Back to hostel and went to a pub down the road (the Dungeon) for dinner and a few beers. Then me and Dibbo (the girls off to bed) had 1 more (which ended up being 10 more) with the owners at the bar - good night telling stories/jokes. The best story was the bank in the town that had to close down as it was being robbed too often - it was beside the police station?????

Next day we had to meet our Zulu/English battlefields tour guide about 100 kms outside Dundee - got there at 10.30 and off we went with him (Evan) - not bad the Zulus really kicked the Poms arses at a battle called Isandlwana (the Zulus had about 20,000 men) - killed about 1500 Poms (out of about 1550) - heaps of Pom mistakes because of that old attitude “we are the best and they are only savages” type of stuff. Then went to Rorkes Drift where a Zulu force of about 4000 were held off by about 120 Poms (some of whom were there in the hospital) - not a bad effort. Then thru Dundee (the most boring place in Africa - besides Nairobi) to Ladysmith - nice place - stayed in a B&B called the Boer & Brit. Had a good feed at a restaurant and a few at the Royal hotel.

Next day we went to the Ladysmith Siege Museum - good place - Ladysmith was a British town and it was put under siege by the Boers for about 100+ days with constant selling by big cannons called Long Toms. Eventually the Poms were relieved and the siege was broken. One good story was this bloke who every day packed a lunch and headed for the river to get away from the shelling - every evening he would come back to town to go back to his room at the Royal (the guns didn't fire once it got dark) - this one day he came back a little too early and a long tom shell went thru the hotel and thru the door to his room and with out exploding too off both his legs and he bled to death - there is a little brass plague is in the footpath outside of the hotel with his name on it. Then it was on the road again - we were going to do a 12km walk to see the Amphitheatre (a range in the Drakensberg mountains) - but it is overcast and rainy so no sense doing it as we would see bugger all. So a leisurely drive to Bergsville Resort - stopped at a cheese factory and did some tasting (with a nice bottle of red) and eventually bought 4 different cheeses between us (my personal favourite was/is the garlic cheese) - then to a nice bar on the side of the road for a quick beer - checked in and dropped off our stuff - then for a drive around - took a wrong turn and saw a power station and then took the right turn and ended up at the Tower of Pizza - so we had a quick beer. Back to the resort (nice place where we stayed - 3 bedroom - Kylie gets to sleep alone) - Dibbo cooked a great Spag Bog and then we had a few more and played cards. Eventually it was just me and Dibbo playing Crib - I think I won 2-1 - but it could have been the other way - neither of us could remember who won the last game.

Next day we were going to do 2 small walks in the Drakensberg - but still overcast and rainy - so did a day of Curio shopping (stopped about 100 places - or so it seemed to me) - meanwhile I slept/read the paper in the car while the others did the looking thing. I did get out twice - once to buy some biltong and have a pee and the second time was to have lunch at a pub. Then we drove to the place we stayed for 3 nights - a little country cottage in the mountains called "Ambleside" about 30 km outside Underberg. Nice area - heaps of nice places to stay - a big resort at the end of the road - cost 25R just to drive inside - so we told them to shove it. Went to another resort called the Castleburn Lodge - a big place that caters mainly for Trout fishing - had a beer in a nice bar there and bought heaps of wood - its freezing outside (they expected snow around here yesterday or today). The place where we stayed was great - it has 3 bedrooms and a caretaker (and family) to look after the place - he lights a fire for you every afternoon before you get home. To get to this place you need to go over a small stream and the bridge says limit of 1 tonne - well the combi seemed to get over it OK - even though we were closer to 2.

The next day we went into town and played golf - nice course (cost 260R - $55 AUS for the 4 of us and 2 hire sets of clubs). The Dibbens beat us by 3 strokes - it was all tied up with 2 holes to play until Dibbo sunk a 25 metre putt from off the green to get a birdie. Then we went to Underberg Inn for lunch and a few - met 2 blokes at the bar - Butch (who works on tugs at Richards Bay and comes to his house here 1 week in 4) and Roger (who is from Perth who sailed a yacht over earlier this year and stayed) - we got talking to them and they invited us for a roast dinner tonight. Drove back to the lodge and got grog and a cheese platter and off to Butch’s place. Great home - big bar area/pool table - had a great night beers, heaps of red wine (about 3 litres), spirits and a great meal (cooked by his maid/house servant). Lynne drove us home about midnight.

The next day the weather was fine and we went on a tour up the Sani Pass to Lesotho - good day - at the top we had lunch and few beers at the highest pub in Africa 2874 metres. Quiet night with Ox Tail stew for dinner (Dibbo had it simmering on and off for the last 3 days).

Long drive the next day - up early and away by 6. Lynne drove the first 8 hours (600kms) - slow trip due to sheep, goats, cattle and people on the road as well as heaps of road works. I took over at 2.00 and eventually got to where we were staying at Storms River Mouth National Park at 9.30 (another 600kms) - we arrived an hour later than we expected as we took a wrong turn (well in fact we didn't take a turn) and had to do a circle back to where we started - the reason we missed a turn was we were laughing at a big neon street sign on the side of the road - Pox Doctor Surgery - with an arrow pointing the direction (it was one of those illuminated signs). Great place where we stayed that night - right on the shorefront with the sound of the waves crashing onto the rocks.

Next day the other 3 did a short walk to the mouth of the river (I had already done it last time) and then to Storms River Village to do a 3 hours Tree Canopy Flying Fox tour - great - us and 3 other people - 8 flying foxes - varying speeds and lengths - great fun. Lunch was included - talking to English women - Susan - just started a 12 month holiday - will be in Aus in November and up our way in Feb next year. Then off to Glentana (just outside of George) via the big tree - 800 year old Yellow wood, the highest Bungi jump in the world - 216 metre and a quick walk around Knysna. The place we are staying for the next 3 days is pretty good - can see the ocean (sort of) - today we are in George arranging things for the next few days - apparently we can't do the steam train to Knysna tomorrow as its booked out - probably play golf at Morsel Bay this afternoon.

Well its been a week and a half since this last message and most of that time we have spent in Cape Town. After I last wrote we travelled that afternoon from George to Morsel Bay (where they do the swimming with great whites in a cage) to play golf. A great course with nice views. Myself and Kylie got beaten again by the team Dibben - but we are getting better. Then back to George where we found a great pub - the Butchers Block - promotion on Taffel beer - free gift with every beer - good afternoon/evening - got talking to the pub manager and bar staff - coming back tomorrow afternoon to watch the rugby on TV. Left there a little late (and worse for wear) and back to Glentana for home made pizzas - good day all round.
Next day Lynne woke us at 8 to say that the Powervan/mountain bike tour is a goer for later today. This involves going up into the mountains in a little rail motor type thing for about 1 hour and then riding mountain bikes down and old road back to town. The bloke running it assured Lynne that there was only a little uphill bit - HE LIED. Most of the way was down and quite steep - had to have brakes on the whole way - then there was about 1km climb uphill - then downhill for a bit until you get into town then its up and down and traffic everywhere. Me and Dibbo got back just as the powervan was coming into the station - Lynne did at one stage think about stopping on the side of the road and wait for us to come and get her in the car - but both made it. We hung around town and did some shopping and a light lunch - Dibbo bought 6 oysters for 14R ($3.00) each. Then about 4.30 to the Butchers Block pub to watch the rugby - saw a few games and talking to manager again - he brought the chef out to talk to us about dinner there that night. I ordered the 1kg sirloin steak - it was only 75R and the half kg was 80R - finished about half - a bit full of pints of beer. Back to Glentana for an early night.

The next morning we shared an egg which Dibbo made into an omelet - there was heaps left over as it was an ostrich egg - not bad. Then we set off for a drive around the area going through a variety of mountain passes - pretty good - nice scenery. This area is the ostrich capital of the world - so saw heaps of ostrich farms. Stopped off on the way back at the Cango Caves - did a 1 hour tour - not bad - one cavern had been vandalised - the large entrance cavern was used until recently for concerts and people would wander further into the cave an break off bits for souvenirs. Back to Glentana for a great meal of mashed spuds, ostrich steaks, pork chops, boerwors, mushrooms, red wine and beer - perfect!!!

Early start the next day - off to Cape Town with some wineries thrown in on the way. Stopped at 5 wineries and myself and Dibbo bought a few bottles to drink in Cape Town. Got into city about 3.30 and found accommodation easily - its about half way between the city centre and the V&A Waterfront - we have a 7th floor penthouse suite, secure parking and key for the lift to our floor, 24 hour security - all for 250R ($50AUS) a night - $12.50 each - we are staying at the Salvation Army - great place - the views of the City, table mountain and harbour are great - couldn't get a better place - well done Dibbo for spotting this in his internet searching. Went into the waterfront that afternoon - straight to Mitchell's via the other 3 booking the Robben Is tour for Friday - Mitchell's is where I spent a lot of time drinking last time I was here - they brew their own in the building. The weather forecast for the next few days is for sunny conditions with rain developing on Saturday (they were spot on). Went to St Elmos for dinner (Pizza/Pasta place) and back to Mitchell's - got a taxi home - Ripped Off - the bloke went the wrong way - driving slow with his hazard lights on - I had a go at him and he said he was showing us around - cost 35R - and its only 2kms max - the next night it only cost us 15R.

Next morning we went up to Table Mountain - me and Dibbo hiked up - we also forget to take water - so we were drinking out of streams and getting water that was dripping from the rocks (took 2 hours - much bloody harder than I can remember the last time - never again - thought I was going to have a heart attack about 2/3 of the way up) - the girls took the cablecar. Both of us pretty buggered once we got to the top and basically had a drink, a very quick look around and back down in the cablecar to the combi. We then went for a drive down the coast road to Houts Bay and had fish and chips at the waterfront - beautiful scenery. Drove back to Cape Town via Constania and visited a winery for a quick taste - good 5 tastes and a wine glass to keep for 20R. The winery as been going since 1658. Then stopped at Rhodes Monument for a look - OK. Quick shower and walked to the waterfront for dinner - the other 3 had a meal at the Quay 4 restaurant - nothing I liked - so I went to Ferrymans and had a half kilo T Bone and chips - lovely. Met back up at Michells for a few and a taxi home - watched movie on TV.

Up late the next morning for a drive to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope - did the False bay road and saw whales from the car most of the way along some only 30 metres or so off the beach. Stopped at Rhodes Cottage - where he died and watched a good video about his life - good little museum - very interesting - to think that he bought out a bloke for over 5 million pounds in the late 1800s - its a lot of money now!!!!! Down to Cape Point and took the Funicular to lighthouse - bugger walking. Then down to Cape of Good Hope - saw a baboon crap all over the side of a car. Then off to Boulders to see the penguins - only Kylie paid to get in - the rest of us to pub for a well deserved ale. Then to Simons town (forgot to mention - today is a public holiday - Heritage Day - traffic is everywhere - some places down to a crawl - it didn't help that everyone was slowing down to watch the whales as well) - had some lunch in Simons Town and then drove back to Cape Town (we were going to go the Chapmans Drive way - but still blocked and wont be open until December - it has been closed since Jan 2000). Tonight Dibbo cooked a great roast pork and vegies - had 3 bottles of red wine and few beers - another great day.

We booked golf for this morning at the Metro course at Green Point - nice course with great views of Table Mtn - cost 850R ($180) for 4 green fees, 2 sets of clubs and 2 golf carts - not cheap. Game ended in a draw - played much better then last few games. Back to room for left over pork sandwich and then walked into city centre for a look around - some people made some expense purchases for people who will remain nameless at this stage - then went to the Purple Turtle (a pub) for a few - cheap beers - 6.50R a pint ($1.30AUS). All feeling pretty good - quick change at home and into waterfront - Portuguese for dinner tonight - gave us free sherry and we bought a bottle of red. Then we went to Quay 4 for a few more - live band - girls dancing - even Dibbo got up for a bit. Got talking to a women who runs a sugar cane farm in Zambia. All a little unsteady for the trip home in taxi (I can't remember it - but can remember everything else).

Some people not feeling too well later that night and the next morning - I was not too bad as I had a sleep in - the rest off to Robben Island for a 4 hour tour. I dropped off our washing went to the waterfront for a look around (we are able to swap the car tomorrow morning - its been giving us problems for the last week or so - takes anything up to 15 tries to start it). Met up with the others at lunch time (tour not too bad) - Lynne not feeling well - back to room for a lie down - Kylie and Dibbo - shopping and me to movies to see Terminator 3 - OK - just what I needed - some mindless trash to watch. Met up at Mitchell's after the movie and Dibbo very excited - he found a sports store that was having massive reductions on some things - he bought shit loads of stuff and very proud of his Brumbies jersey - I bought something that had been reduced from 549R to 79R. Had a few beers in the Sports Cafe watching a Currie cup game and then back to room for a Spag Carbinaria and all to bed early.

Slept in next morning - raining (as forecasted) - went to Sea Point to get washing and pick up new car (another blue one) - nice bloke Fred - organised it all - however within 500meters the side door panel came off and then later we discovered that the headlights don't work - going back tomorrow to get another car (white this time). Got wet going into V&A shops - did some shopping and then went for a drive to Newlands to find a Game store (to by a Barracuda pool vacuum - costs $800 back home only $220 here) - very large box. We were going to see the rugby - but its still raining - couldn't find a place to watch it in Newlands - so we went back to the V&A to the Sports Bar - Crowded. Stood up and watched game (2 on at the same time) - both good games. Rest home to change and get rid of shopping - I stayed and watched another game (they were meant to come almost straight back) - I kept a table for as long as I could - before I ordered a steak dinner and headed for the bar - when the other 3 arrived (2 hours later) they decided to eat there - there was crap sports on TV (soccer) - so I went down to Mitchell's to wait for them. Home and watched Texas Chainsaw Massacre 2 - bloody hell what a crap movie.

Next day we had a bit of a sleep in - down to Green Point Stadium for the Sunday markets - they weren't on - something happening in the stadium - so down to Sea Point to have a look around while Fred got our new car - this one is the best so far. Back to the V&A to do some last minute shopping and then into the city - went to the Castle and a walk through the Company Gardens (saw about 3 wedding parties in the gardens - the weather has improved today - cloudy but sunny). Then to Long St and had a few beers at a few pubs and back to room for steak, ostrich and pasta dinner and 3 bottles of red between me and Dibbo.

Off a little late yesterday - to Somerset West and Stellenbosch for a day of wineries. Went to 6 (the last one had just closed as we got there) - 2 of which I had visited last time - all beautiful old building and gardens. Bought a few bottles for later and picked up a few more wine glasses. Found a B&B at a farm - great value 600R a night and it has 4 double beds each with its own ensuite. Into town for dinner at DROS (next door to where we had lunch - large pizzas and burgers and Fish and Chips for 18R each). The DROS was OK - but a bit wined out - I had a small steak, Kylie Chicken Sniz, Lynne and Dibbo shared a Skewer of meat - home and watched a bit of TV - they had satellite.

This morning its emailing, having a look around town and buying stuff for dinner tonight before its off for another day of wineries in the Paarl and Francescis Town areas - Yippee!!!!!! That all for now (thanks to all those people at home who have been sending us news of what's happening - let me think that would be no one from Townsville would it - don't forget - no e-mails no presents)


Well - we are at Joberg airport in the British Airways Lounge waiting for the flight to Perth which leaves at 17:05 SA time - we get to Perth at 8.00 (AUS time) tomorrow morning and then the Dibbens and Kylie go to Brisbane and at the moment I'm booked to go to Sydney and stay the night there. If that is the way it turns out we both get back into Townsville within an hour of each other on Friday (me 11.00ish and the rest 12ish). I am going to try to get the same flights as the Dibbens when we get to Perth.

Anyway, since last I wrote we have drunk quite a bit of red wine (well me and Dibbo have anyway). The day I last emailed we did another 4 wineries - great way to spend a Tuesday. Had a few when we got home as well and didn't get to bed until late.

Next morning we headed for Lamberts Bay on the west coast - Dibbo had read on the internet about a great seafood restaurant there. Found some great accommodation right on the beach and then did a drive around town. The restaurant that Dibbo wanted to go to isn't open tonight so we are going to another that has a seashell fragment floor. We went and checked out the golf course - but they didn't have hire clubs so we couldn't play. The course is unreal - sandy fairways that are covered in wild flowering shrubs. Had a few beers at the bar and did a few more pubs in town before heading out to dinner - not bad place. The place we are staying at cost in total 240R /night ($50AUS) .

Up early the next day (away at 7) - we are heading for Upington (via the Augrabie Falls - not bad, but not a lot of water going over them). The place we are staying is an Asbes hut on an island in the middle of the Orange river - on the same island a big festival is going on as well. Went to a nice restaurant that night and then back to the island to the festival - heaps of people - beauty pageant, food stalls, things to buy and heaps of grog outlets. Then it was back to the room where me an Dibbo had quite a few beers down by the river until late.

Next morning we had a slow start and off to Kimberley (I slept in the back seat). Went to the Keg and Falcon for lunch and then to the Halfway house pub for a beer. Back to the room (nice place where we are staying - 2 rooms, kitchen and sat TV) and the rest rested - I watched TV - tonight we were going to the Rugby - it was due to start at 7.10pm (according to the paper) - however in my channel surfing I discovered it was already on - it started at 3.45 - so no rugby. Instead we stayed in and ordered Pizza and watched TV.

Next morning we went to the Big Hole Museum - great place - a bloody big hole. Lots of old buildings and heaps to see - there is an old pub in here called the Australian Arms. Then we went for lunch (not me - I'm doing the 1kg rump tonight) at the Star of the West pub. Then to the McGregor Museum - an old hotel that was built by Rhodes. Back to room and dress for dinner - Barnados. Well I did it - I ate the 1Kg (with a few chips) - I get my name on a plaque in the main bar.

Next day we are on our way to Sun City - we are not staying there as it will cost 1150R/person/night ($230Aus) - bugger that - they have specials for South Africans for 370R. Anyway we are staying in a chalet in the Pilansberg NP right beside Sun City and we have booked a game of golf there for tomorrow. On the way to the park we called into Rustenberg to do some shopping and got to the park at 2pm. Great place we did 4 game drives over 2 days and saw the big 5 - just too low to see a Cheetah eat its kill - saw heaps of lions and Rhino. I got to see a LEOPARD - first time in all the game parks I have been to - I was so excited I had to have a few beers to calm myself down. We got charged by a female elephant because we got between her and her calf - great fun - I was driving and everyone thought I had the car in reverse (it was in first) - bugger that I had the camera out trying to get good shots. Dibbo almost shit himself on the second day - he got out of the car to get a closer look and photos of a rhino and its young one - the young one spotted him - Lynne screamed at him and he took flight - but the trooper he is he returned to the fray and got a good shot.

Of all the game/national parks I have been to in the 2 trips to Africa - this place rates as one of the best. The 2 nights we stayed in the park we cooked our own meals - great and we washed it down with 6 bots of red.

The middle day we were there, we went to Sun City to play golf - we played 18 holes and me and Kylie cleaned them up (by over 10 strokes - must be the new white glove I bought). The course was interesting to say the least - 1 hole has crocs on it. It cost 275R ($55) each for the buggy and green fees and 300R ($60) for the hire of the clubs (women only 200R). We had a bit of a look around the place - you have to as pay 60R each to get in.

Anyway the next day it was back to Pretoria and to pack all our gear - what a sight the rooms were - but it all got in expect for a few shirts, towel, etc... I was feeling a bit crook (had the shits) - went to the toilet until midnight - Lynne and Kylie had the same thing later in the night and Dibbo not 100% either - but the show must go on. The rest went for dinner down the road - they had no power - still OK apparently.

On the way to the airport to drop off the car we stopped for 3 hours at a big shopping centre to do a final shop (I went to the movies and saw Tomb Raider 2).

Anyway we are currently now in Perth and had a pretty good trip back to Aus - had about 8 beers and a bottle of red - Dibbo much the same expect he was having gins. Its 9.30am WA AUS time or 3.30am SA time so we all are a bit stuffed - wont get into Sydney until 6pm tonight (the other 3 are going to Brisbane - I couldn't be stuffed changing my flight). So that's it - the fat lady has sung and we have all arrived back in OZ safely.

GREAT trip (I got to see a LEOPARD) - saw and did heaps - certainly beats working - however I think I now need a holiday